Raw Silk
Manufacture (Reeling)
Introduction
The process of drawing
silk fibre from the cocoon is called reeling. The cocoons are cooked in hot
water and the silk fibre is unwound from the cocoons. The silk consists of two proteins,
the inner core of fibroin and an outer cover of gum sericin. During reeling, the cocoons
are processed in hot water at 95-970C for 10-15 minutes. This process is called
cooking. This cooking will enable the sericin portion to get softened and make unwinding
easy without breaks. The cocoons after cooking are reeled in hot water in different types
of machines. In India, 61% of the silk amounting to 1,320 tonnes is reeled on the
country-type charka (spinning-wheel) numbering 6,656. The silk produced with the country
charka is of very poor quality, as the thread is not uniform, as it carries many slubs
etc. the improved cottage-type basins have been introduced recently into India. Provision
for button-holes and a proper croisure system to maintain the thickness of the fibre, and
to control the defects of neatness in the cottage basin have facilitated the production of
better-quality silk. As much as 4,000 cottage basins in the country produce 806 tonnes of
silk.
Large-scale basins
organized scientifically are arranged in filatures for the extraction of superior-quality
fibre. The silk produced by the filatures is superior because of the low level of defects
of cleanliness and uniformity in the thickness of the fibre. Only 8% of the total
production of silk in India is contributed by filatures.
The silk produced from
multivoltine races of silk worms is poor in quality and is known to have greater defects,
such as lousiness, and defects in neatness and cleanliness and is of very poor quality in
light of the international D grade. The silk produced by the bivoltine races of silkworms
possesses superior neatness and cleanliness, is without lousiness and has high tensile
strength and stands to the international A grade.
The new technology of
handling silkworms in the country has shown that bivoltine silkworms, producing the
international quality of silk, can be produced throughout the year in the Karnataka state
in India. It has been shown that, on an average, 30 to 35 kg of cocoons, yielding 3 to 4
kg of high-grade silk can be produced by rearing 40,000 eggs of bivoltines, as compared
with 25 kg of cocoons and 1.4 kg of low-quantity fibre from multivoltines.
Factors affecting the quality of silk are:
The water used in silk
reeling plays an important role. It is estimated that to produce one kg. Of silk from
charka, the volume of water required is about 100 liters. If the quality of water is poor,
the impurities suspended in the water will adhere to the silk thereby the colour, and
lustre of silk would be influenced. The water used for cooking cocoons should be colour
less, odour less and transparent. The pH of water should be between 6.8 to 8.4.
The cocoons contain
live pupae which will emerge out with in 10-12 days of cocooning hence, cocoons ae
stifled. Once the moth emerge out, the shell becomes of no use to reel since the adult
emerges out by piercing the cocoon shell. The cocoons contain live pupae, which will
emerge out with in 10-12 days of cocooning hence, cocoons are stifled. Once the month
emergesout, the shell becomes of no use to reel since the adult emerges out by piercing
the cocoon shell. The primary object of drying cocoons is to kill the pupae and to reduce
the water content of fresh cocoons.
Methods of stifling
Sun drying
The freshly harvested
cocoons are directly exposed to sunlight. In this method the harvested cocoons are spread
in one layer and directly exposed to bright sun-light for several days from morning to
evening until the pupae inside is killed and cocoon is found properly dried. This can be
identified by shaking the cocoon which will make rattling sound.
Advantages:
this is cheapest
method of stifling
Easily available
method of cocoons drying to rearers.
These cocoons can be
reeled immediately.
Disadvantages:
Continuous exposure
to hot sun-light, damages the silk quality due to the action of ultra violet rays.
Some times
continuous sun-light may not be possible, particularly during rainy season. Partial drying
of cocoons will spoil the quality of silk.
Wastage of silk
during reeling will be more.
Steam stifling
Methods
Advantages
conveniently used to
stifle large quantities of cocoons
uniform stifling of
cocoons
Disadvantages
steam stifled
cocoons cannot be reeled immediately, other wise the sericin will wet and fibroin comes is
lumps while reeling
in steam stifling
pupa is killed inside and does not dry it.
Hot air conditioning
In the modified hot
air conditioning chamber there are five compartments. Each chamber is different ranges of
temperature.
The first chamber is
filled with cocoons are supplied of with hot air at 500C for about 3hrs.
The second chamber
by sliding mechanism by pulling out where 700C for about 3hrs.
The third chamber
cocoons are dropped into 75-800C.
The forth chamber is
cocoons dried by hot air at 80-900C temperature
The fifth chambers
are gradually exposed to hot air in the 12 hours of time and continuous process.
Advantages
Any amount of
cocoons can be easily stifled.
Time saving, labour
saving.
Disadvantages
Cocoons of uniform
size are quite suitable for this process, but Indian multi-voltine cocoons with different
sizes and different qualities need different degrees of temperature for stifling.
Costly and skilled
labours are required.
Storage of cocoons
While storing the
cocoons certain precautions should be taken into consideration other wise improper storage
of cocoons leads to loss due to occurance of damage to the cocoons.
Preventive measures
should be taken:-
avoid storage of
stained cocoons
storage room should
have good ventilation.
Cocoon storage place
should be clean and dry. No waste cocoons should be stored in the premises.
Always ensure proper
drainage of cocoons before storage.
Relative humidity in
the storage room should not exceed 70%.
Before storage of
cocoons, the storage place should be thoroughly disinfected.
In case of long
storage of cocoons, frequent turnings should be given.
Sorting
Sorting of cocoons is
already done at once, once again it should be checked prior to reeling.
Deflossing
Floss is the outer
most layer of cocoon which is only a protective covering and is not reelable. Prior to
reeling floss has to be removed by any of the methods to avoid obstruction during reeling.
Cocoon ridding
After deflossing the
cocoons, in the process of ridding, cocoons are separated according to their sizes by
simple sieves into big, small and medium size cocoons and collected in separate
containers. This will facilitate the reeling operations easy.
Reeling
Definition
Reeling is a process
of unwinding of silk filament from the cocoon. Reeling process is an important activity.
Depending upon the required thickness (denier) of silk thread filaments from number of
cocoons are combined together and reeled. An efficient reeler will maintain the fixed
number of cocoons per end to produce uniform denier silk. Reeling is carried out by
distinctive methods.
Types
It is about 50% of
total raw silk production is contributed by charka. Reeling machine is traditionally home
built by using wooden material with the assistance of black smith and corpenter hence,
Investment on
reeling machinery is very-very less.
Even the inferior
quality cocoons can be also reeled by charka.
No much technology
is involved in this system of reeling.
Only one reeler can
reel.
Brushing and cooking
are done in the same basin.
The cost of
production is very low compared to other reeling machines.
Involvement of
labour is very less only two persons are sufficient to maintain.
Reeler can establish
a charka unit at the back yord of his own residence.
Production per day
would be around 1 kg from each charka.
Marketing of charka
reeled silk is very easy and it will be always at his door steps.
In charka, there are
three distinct parts.
Mud-Platform
Distributor
Reel.
Important points
The reel should be
always smooth.
As the cooking and
brushing, reeling are done in the same water. The water should be changed frequently.
As the cooking and
brushing, reeling are done in the same water.
After cooking the
cocoons thoroughly, when reeling ends are found, the temperature of water in the reeling
basin should be lowered to 40 0C by adding cold water.
Disadvantages
The silk produced by
charka reeling is inferior quality.
As the reeling is
done in water at very high temperature which is harmful to the reeler.
Frequently, water is
to be changed and heated again, this will increase the fuel cost.
In cottage basin, the
cocoons are cooked separately and re-reeling is done separately to increase the quality of
silk. In cottage basin cooking is done separately and the reeling basins are fixed to a
reel bench. There will be 6-10 ends in each basin. Arrangement to supply hot water to each
basin and to drain out the dirt water accumulated due to floss and sericin is made.
Advantage
Quality of silk
produced is superior to charka silk.
Water in the reeling
basin will be fresh. This will help to maintain the quality of silk.
Production per day
can be increased, as it is power operated.
Points to be
remembered by reeler
The waste material
stuck to the jetteabout should be removed from time to time.
It is acvisable to
take a mixture of fresh and partially reeled cocoons while reeling.
Replace the water in
the reeling basin from time to time.
Apply the lubricant
to croissure pulleys for smooth running.
Filature or multi-end
reeling machine works on the principle of slow motion reeling and thread production on
small reels at a large number of ends per basin.
Advantages
Superior quality
silk can be produced
Wastage is reduced
High productivity
Less labour
Arrangements are
made to control the speed of the reels and tension of the threads.
Raw silk per day
will be around 800 gms of superior quality.
Automatic reeling
machine
Bi-voltine cocoons are
best suited to automatic reeling machines. This machinery requires superior quality
cocoons and uniform size of cocoons with less floss. Generally the multi-voltine cocoons
are not fit for automatic reeling. This is particularly due to inferior quality. The silk
produced from automatic reeling machine will be superior. |